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Our specialty is seafood where we take a pared down approach. Less is better. And over the last decade we have been working out how to best cook freshly gathered funghi. Then there are recipes which we have used successfully over many years. These are adaptations of recipes we have taken from books and we will give you our source. Mostly these will lead back to another book.

Our Recipes

The Use of Decanters to Create Theatre at a Xmas Lunch
Friday, 6th October, 2017 - David Farmer

You can find great food in humble restaurants and spotting these places before the crowd arrives is most satisfying. In general though the great restaurants of the world, though I only know France and Australia well, are not modest in appearance. It seems success at the highest level of cooking is associated with creating a similar level of ambience, even luxury, as after-all the clientele are wealthy. more...

All About Chinese Tea, Part 2
The Famous and Special Teas of China

Wednesday, 2nd March, 2011 - David Farmer

I was fortunate to spend time in China in the late 1970's and early 1980's which came about from one of the poorly thought out business ideas of my brother and I to import tea from China. What follows comes from notes I took during an extended stay in June, 1980. I believe this information will prove quite useful to those who love tea and its many types. more...

All About Chinese Tea, Part 1
Thursday, 16th July, 2009 - David Farmer

I was fortunate to spend time in China in the late 1970's and early 1980's which came about from one of the poorly thought out business ideas of my brother and I to import tea from China. What follows comes from notes I took during an extended stay in June, 1980. I believe this information will prove quite useful to those who love tea and its many types. more...

A Fish Sauce and Tony Bilson's Whiting Quenelles
Sunday, 28th June, 2009 - David Farmer

Elizabeth David

Catching and eating fish is the ultimate life's pleasure. I seldom use a sauce as the approach to fish is cook them when fresh and keep it simple. With that said for a number of years I have experimented with a recipe of the great Elizabeth David which was published in The Complete Imbiber, No. 6. (Vista Books, London, 1963). more...

- Rabbit Pie with Pine Mushrooms

Friday, 5th June, 2009

- Mark Lloyd of Coriole Talks About Olives and Oil

Friday, 28th March, 2008

- Tales about Oysters, Opening and Eating

Thursday, 6th December, 2007

- Yeast Leavened Pancakes

Thursday, 22nd February, 2007

- Peasant Mushroom Soup

Friday, May 26th, 2006

- Fish, Eggs and Steaming Bream

Wednesday, March 22nd, 2006

- Cheong Liew's Steamed Eggplant with Tomato Chilli Sauce

Tuesday, 28th February, 2006

- Time for Saucing

Friday, 24th February, 2006

- Slippery Jacks in August?

Wednesday, 17th August, 2005

- Lentilles du Puy

Friday, 5th August, 2005

- A Delightful Warm Vegetable Salad

Wednesday, 20th April 2005

- A Tasty Fish Soup

Friday, 28th January, 2005

- The French Pizza from Provence - Pissaladiere

Friday, 28th January, 2005

- Another Broad Bean Option

Wednesday, 3rd November, 2004

- A Good Recipe for Broad Beans

Saturday, 30th October, 2004

- The Collection and Smoking of Mussels

Sunday, 18th October, 2004

- Cooking East Coast Whiting

Thursday, 14th October, 2004

- A Great Yabby Recipe

Saturday, 17th October, 2004

- The Perfect Fish Batter

Friday, 8th October, 2004

- Flathead Sushi

Wednesday, 15th September, 2004

- A Classic Carp Recipe

Wednesday, 4th August, 2004

Fish, Eggs and Steaming Bream
Wednesday, March 22nd, 2006 - David Farmer

For many years I used eggs when making a batter for fish and as a sticking agent when I wanted to coat fish with flour. When pan frying fish I like to roll the fish or fish fillet in flour as it produces an attractive light brown colouring and a nutty taste.

The yolk in particular leaves a distinctive flavour so over the years I moved to using egg white. Even this no longer appeals as it still leaves a faint egg taste. Now I roll the fish in low fat milk and find this satisfactory. For the perfect fish batter go here.

These thoughts were prompted by a fish recipe I came across before Christmas in the Sydney Morning Herald that recommended an egg be added to the flour when making fish batter.

My dislike of the fish with egg taste was evident during a recent trip to the South Island of New Zealand. One of their famous regional delicacies is ‘white bait’. In Queenstown I tried the accepted way of serving this fish which is cooked in a flour egg fritter or as an omelette. The result confirmed my views as the delicate fish flavours were masked and even hidden by the taste of egg.

Later while travelling up the west coast I came across a café-milk bar in the coastal town of Greymouth which was selling whitebait fritters and asked the chef whether they could be served in a simpler way. The tiny fish were tossed in a small amount of flour, dusted off, and then quickly pan fried for a minute or so in a small amount of butter. They were delicious and getting close to my view of the correct flavour. I did wonder if they would be better without the butter. On the wall of this café was a dinner menu in honour of the Premier of New Zealand dated 1904 and the white bait was cooked in milk.

White bait is a tiny fish about three centimetres long and about the thickness of spaghetti. They are the juveniles of five species of freshwater fish called galaxiids. The most common is the Galaxias maculatus and this has a distinctive greenish band along the side. The fishing season extends from the 1st September to the 14th November. Thus those I had been eating were frozen. Why you are even allowed to catch these fish I have no idea as in the back of my mind is the knowledge that a thriving industry in Tasmania did not last long; although you can still get them if you know a poacher.

With the idea that I could cook them better I stopped at the fishing port of Westport and bought half a kilo of frozen white bait. At the local supermarket I bought a non stick frypan, peanut oil and a packet of white flour. I lightly dusted the fish, and placed them in the lightly oiled pan. Peanut oil is very good for this type of cooking as it only burns at a high heat; and incidentally is wonderful for making chips. You can watch the fish cooking as the colour goes from translucent to opaque and this happens quickly, in this case within 40 seconds.

With a squeeze of lemon juice on the side of the plate and a touch of salt for dipping they were perfect.

The flavours of many estuarine and in-shore fish are delicate and are readily masked by herbs, spices and other strong flavouring agents. I believe fish should be left alone and served very simply.

All of which leads me to a recipe I want to share which I now use when I cook bream.

Bream is a very popular eating fish though I have never found it all that appealing, at least when there is other fresh fish around, and have struggled for years to find a way to cook it that brings out the flavour. It is white fleshed and makes a good boneless fillet which accounts for its popularity.

If the fish has just been caught here is a way that brings out the best. You will need a stainless steel pan with sides from 15cm to 20 cm high. Do not wash, scale or gut the fish. Line the base of the pan with freshly gathered sea weed of several types. Place the fish on the seaweed and then cover it with more seaweed. Tip in a cup of sea water but the water level must not touch the fish as this would poach it and what you want is to steam the bream in its own skin.

Preheat the oven so the pan goes in when it is at say, 165-185C and slowly increase the temperature till steam is rising then turn down. The hard part is getting the cooking time right. It goes from undercooked to overcooked very easily. Overcooking makes the flesh go mushy. Alas only trial and error will get this part of the cooking right. For the first few times check the progress of the fish. After that it will come pretty naturally like all cooking.

The skin and scales peel off in one piece so when serving cut the skin along the top of the fish and just peel it off. Lift off the fillet, turn and do the other side.

I like to serve this with sauces of different colours thus you might have a lemon butter sauce on one side of the plate and green coloured sauce, sorrel is very good as is parsley in ‘sauce persil’, on the other side. I do not like sauce poured over the fish as it seems to me each guest should make up their own mind as to how fish should be eaten.

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