This passage is taken from the introduction by Cyril Ray which he dedicates to Raymond Postgate. This is an often told story of a court appearance by Postgate when he appeared as an expert witness for the French Champagne Industry and was remembered to give readers an idea of his quickness of wit.

"The cause of laughter in others, too, as in the celebrated passage with counsel for Perelada who taxed him, an expert witness for the French champagne houses, with wishing to reserve the word 'champagne' only for the most expensive kinds of champagne, 'so that only the rich can enjoy champagne'. What his clients wanted to do, retorted Raymond Postgate, was to call margarine butter so that the poor could enjoy butter."