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Outside the Chateau, the Peasants are Revolting
Monday, 29th August, 2005
- Richard Farmer
A call by the owner of the beautiful Chateau de Vaurenard estate for 10 per cent of this year's Beaujolais harvest to be left on the vines has not gone down well with the majority of the region's grape growers. Ghislain de Longevialle, whose family have been making wine at the chateau for three centuries, was forced to step down as head of l'Union viticole du Beaujolais (UVB) after an acrimonious rally by 800 growers rallied outside the Union's Villefranche-sur-Saone office last week. 'Revolution' proclaimed the headline in the local paper Le Patriote-Beaujolais which a national paper, in reference to a violent revolt in the 17th century, dubbed the protest 'le fronde'.
The nub of the opposition to M. de Longevialle came from growers who said they could not afford the production cut. M. de Longevialle denied that the conflict pitted the older, wealthiest winemakers against the less well off. 'The attacks on me have been sustained and personal. But it's the law of the market that is behind the problem,' he said. 'We have to do something before this harvest creates another huge surplus.'
The current stockpile in Beaujolais is equal to about half normal annual production. With vintage little more than a week away, growers are to meet again to try and agree on a unified position. One suggestion is that the across the board cut of 10% should be replaced by a scheme of compulsory tasting of all wines and the destruction of the vines of the worst vineyards. 'That way those of us who work hard and know what we are doing don't have to carry the weight of the amateurs,' said Thierry Canard, who runs Chateau de Blaceret vineyard and is co-director of ' the Beaujolais tous ensemble' (Beaujolais United) group of disgruntled growers.
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