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International Letters
Glugging in Guangdong
Saturday, 1st September, 2007  - Lee Char Warland

Yum boi Glug! Here's some more vinous observations from my sojourn in south east China - still haven't had a bad meal... but when I hear all the recent kerfuffle about Chinese food standards I wonder why I'm still alive!

Since I last wrote, the Hong Kong import duty on wine has been halved (to 40% ad valorem). Interesting - I can remember how the Aussie retail trade used to react to tax changes, virtually copping any on-hand stock loss on the chin overnight in order to stay competitive. Not so here - in fact the press has been starting to ask questions regarding the lack of price movement.

In the sub $100/bottle bracket, which is where I tend to focus...things have certainly started to improve, with my favourite quaffer, a Spanish Tempranillo now down to sixty bucks (A$9) and for the same money I recently picked up a spicy Portugese Trincadeira-Castelão blend by Segada.

Over on the mainland, dining is always an adventure. I spent a weekend at a marvellous five star hotel in Humen, The Richwood Garden. Nine restaurants and a "Red Wine and Cigar Bar" (above). Cheap as chips and highly recommended, as it is near an old fort and museum on the Zhujiang River. A day visit there gave me a thorough insight to the Opium Wars. I don't remember learning anything about them at school - maybe because that was the Menzies era and in those wars the Poms were the bad guys!

Meals on the mainland are a great chance to taste all the wondrous variations of the ubiquitous Great Wall Cabernet. I swear I have seen at least ten different labels and at least five vintages - none later than 1999! At the prices charged in restaurants it is fair drinking with Chinese food and I have always marvelled at how consistent and technically clean it is (albeit, a tad fresh and purple for 8+ years old).

Come in spinner! I don't know why it didn't occur to me earlier. Even in Hong Kong, country of origin does not appear to be compulsory on labels - so it is with a little embarrassment that I now note that last year Australia's wine exports to China were 13.1 million litres at an average of $1.64/litre...

And now for something completely different... Mature Drinking Vinegar! (left)

Bought at Wal-Mart in Shekou, Shenzhen and piled high for 6 RMB, say 95 cents Aussie, the packaging is superb and would do justice to a Rutherglen or Barossa fortified. I finally got enough courage to try it - interesting - like a sweet sparkling cider...but the ethyl acetate was too obvious for a wine man. Turns out it makes a great cooking sauce ingredient!

Historic Segment - I have been around the Aussie industry for a while now, but this label, found in a village museum on Lantau Island escapes me! Is there anyone out there who can shed light on Australian Pussy Port???? (right)

Glug, I am sure you will moderate all feedback accordingly and just a hint to your readers - don't "Google it"!

WINE QUOTES
A Pun on Pettillance
Attributed to: Ray, Cyril
Source: Christies Wine Review, 1978 from the article Champagne in the English Social Scene
Contributed by: Anon

"And another of the Restoration dramatists, Farquhar, has a tavern servant in his Love in a Battle (1697) point to the champagne he has brought and say, 'Here, here, Master, how it puns and quibbles in the glass!' Any wine writer of today would be proud to have made of petillance a pun and of every bubble a quibble."


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